Hoi An, Vietnam

Well, haven't we had some interesting adventures on our slow journey around Vietnam? (It was a rhetorical question, no need to answer it...) It all started going pear-shaped when the two misguided adventurers decided to try to do it themselves, avoid the vulture-like locals, and get their own way to one of the world's most beautiful places - Halong Bay. It was nice - the 20 or so minutes we saw of it from a distance in the rain. Really nice. (Sarcasm intended). Debacle is a word that sums up the 8 hour return bus trip crammed in with fighting, spitting, hustling locals - and I mean crammed and I mean hustling. (No sarcasm intended) These guys will scam money out of you faster than you can say 'Visa Card.' The ten-seater bus held at least 25 people, sometimes more, along with all of their luggage - a big screen tv, bundles of clothes, suitcases. I was disappointed at the absence of chickens and goats. In all, we missed sailing through the most beautiful place on earth because the bus kept stopping to cram more people on. We arrived to find that the boat had left without us... We hung our heads in defeat and headed back to Hanoi.

After our untriumphant return to Hanoi, we got drunk. Very drunk. It helped a little. Even the serious hangovers on the bus south to Dong Ha were an outrageously pleasant sensation compared to our experiences on the previous day.

Dong Ha was excellent. We chased Charlie through the underground tunnels dug by the Viet Cong in Vinh Moc. They were crammed, damp and dark. It was amazing to see this elaborate system of tunnels dug straight into the clay earth. It was even more amazing to be sent out to explore the place on your own. The kilometres of tunnels housed hundreds of villagers and Viet Cong soldiers for five years. Carved into thr tunnel walls were family rooms, wells, washing rooms, baby delivery rooms (17 babies born underground!) conference rooms, armouries, even a hall for showing films and cultural events. Impressive stuff!

We moved onto Hue to explore the ancient ruins of the Vietnamese Imperial Citadel. Most of it got destroyed in the recent wars which is sad to see. It would have been very beautiful in its day. Now we find ourselves in Hoi An, getting measured up for tailor-made clothes for next to nothing. The inner thigh measurements were Dennis' highlight! After a bit of R&R (Read: Drinking) we will continue our journey south. Adios.